October 21, 2010

Finally coming together

I've been trying to get things in the Everett hold room sorted and clean(ish) since I moved out here a little over a year ago. A new space is what's needed, but I'll be happy with organized. Took a big step forward today with an initial batch of plastic bins to sort the holds into, instead of just piling them onto the shelves. This got us moving things around, which got us finding junk back there that just need to be cleaned out. I think it's finally starting to look like a legitimate hold room. Can't wait for the rest of the bins... and more holds.

Also, I found a nice little stop-gap solution to our t-nut problems... at least for one small section of wall. T-nut mod on one of the old Cascade Crags screw on features for the win!

Before


After

October 3, 2010

Back to bouldering!

So I went out to Leavenworth today with a bunch of kids from the team (some were already out there with Adam). Today was awesome on a whole other level. I haven't felt this solid during an outdoor bouldering session in, well, ever. After a barely adequate warm up on some VBs, I did a repeat ascent of Pimpsqueek (V9), and Fritz flashed in right before that. Then we headed down the the main area and started working on the Sail (V9). The first few moves on this are awkward to say the least. Sam put in down first, with Alex following. I detoured slightly to the Jib (V8), which Alex had just done after the Sail, and snagged a send on the second go. With my psych back up, I went back to the Sail and promptly hiked it. We headed up to get on Hantaman (V9), but after a few attempt, and a general sense of apathy about the problem, we moved on. On our way down we stopped to watch the ladies crush the Undercling (V5), which you can see Audrey Hsu on below (I promised her I wouldn't post the video of her falling on the start move if she sent).

The whole crew then headed over to the Swiftwater area. Sam, Alex and I headed over to try Big Booty Bitch Slap (V10), a problem with a heinous start to a significantly easier finish. After a little while the older girls came by to try the Footless traverse (V5) and Raging Bull (V7), which share the same finish as BBBS. Being the end of the day (or end of the second day for a lot of them), we were having a major flail fest at this point. Personally, having done a V8 and two V9s in a day (a personal best), my good mood was not being affected too much by my complete inability to successfully even hold onto the start hold and pull off the ground. So we packed up and went over to where the little ones were climbing. Our general tiredness devolved into some rather typical (climbing easy problems in our street shoes because we're too lazy to change them) and atypical (Sam wading out into a freezing cold river to try and catch a fish with his hands) behavior, some of which may or may not have found its way onto the internets.


And yes, the mens room was unoccupied when he entered.

September 19, 2010

Tacoma Throwdown!


So the first ever comp at the Tacoma Vertical World was off the hook! This was one of the best comps I've been to, period. Perfect number of problems, perfect amount of climbing time, wicked sick problems that I'd drive back down there to get on again. This could turn into the bouldering event in the PNW with a little work. Good way to make a first impression boys!

... and the after show, courtesy of Vertical Girl, was cool too. Check it.




September 6, 2010

The Trip: The End


So on my last day at Rumney this year, I fell on the same move of the same route that I fell on the day before I drove west. Brutal. At least next summer I'll know what to do to get ready for Rumney... Boulder, a lot. Even when you're on your feet, you've still have to pull with your arms. It is what it is, and I love it.

So after getting my but kicked, Izzy and I hit up The Common Man for some lunch before heading down to Foxboro to see the Seattle Sounders visit The New England Revolution. I'm a converted man now, and I was cheering for the Sounders.


This was a fantastic vacation, and exactly what I've been needing. Can't wait to do it again next year!

September 1, 2010

The Trip: Actual Sending!


Technosurfing is one of the best routes at Rumney, and I'm kicking myself for not doing it sooner. There were only two of us this trip, so we didn't get any pics, but I tracked down a good shot of the route off google. There's another 25-30 feet below the bottom of the shot. Get psyched! (and click to view full size)

The Trip: Nostalgia

So due to a lack of climbing partners, I spent several days chilling and enjoying being in a place that feels like I never left. The roads, the food, the people. This is, and always will be, home. I hope in several years I'll be able to come back here for good. Maybe when I transition from route setter to high school teacher. But that's still a long way off, can't get hung up on it. Life is good now. As the saying goes, "if it ain't broke, don't fix it." But you could still work on your food shops Washington, get on it.


August 23, 2010

The Trip: A Rough Start

So this trip got off to a very bad start. The airline screwed up and I missed my connecting flight, resulting in me getting in 6 hours later than planed. Then the next morning I didn't find out if I had a car or not until it was too late to head up to Rumney. So I headed into my old gym to be greeted by being told that I could not set, and therefor, could not climb for free, and that to be able to set I'd need the permission from the head setter who is on vacation in the Sierras. Seriously? I use to be the head setter there. Do you think he's going to tell me no? Fortunately Dan showed up and wanted to get on some real rock, so we booked it out to Gloucester to get on some glacial erratics before the sun went down.

After a quick session we headed over to Cala's in Manchester for dinner and to visit Lauren at her new job. In classic Manchester fashion the food was good, but overpriced.

The next morning I was hoping to just beat the rain to Lincoln Woods in Rhode Island, but failed to do so. Just ended up spending the day hanging around the house.

Today (monday) was an obvious rain day, so I slept in and chilled out for the afternoon. I watch the excellent movie Cashback. Then headed into the gym for Yoga for Climbers, which Lauren teaches.

August 14, 2010

Untitled

Another fit has brought me down again.

Mentally prone, I lie in wait of rest,

But sleep does not come, nor will it stave pain.

For there can be little that will work best.


The mind's infection races far and wide,

Bringing the body ache and heart distress.

The past's indiscretions will not subside,

So that the new born soul can not confess.


So it tries to force and bring clarity back,

To bring these things forward into the light.

But psychoses push back, a swift attack,

And silent the voice falls on the cold night.


An utterance so soft it's barely caught

As he dreams of the woman never forgot.

August 13, 2010

The Parents Invade! - Sunday

We started the day off with the tour of the Boeing plant just down the street from my apartment. It was cool see how they put together the 747's, 777's and the yet to be released 787's. Each one had it's own unique assembly line.

Next it was into town to go to the aquarium. It was pretty cool, but I expected more from a coastal city. Picked some of my favorite videos I got there:



To end the weekend off we saved the best for last, a Sounders game! This was a crazy experience. No other MLS team has a following like this. They were also kind enough to win 2-0.

August 10, 2010

The Parents Invade! - Saturday

So may parents were in Seattle this last weekend, so I finally got to do some of the tourist things around town. We starting things off on saturday by going to the Experience Music and Sci-Fi Museum. This place covers two of my favorite things outside of climbing.

(The tower of guitars in the center of the museum)
(Nirvana's old gear)

(Eddie Van Halen's famous guitar)

(I shouldn't need to explain this one)

(What I wanted to be when I grew up. So jealous of Cory Feldman)

(Aren't you a little short to be a Storm Trooper?)

(Dude, your skin fell off)

(Farscape was one of the greatest sci-fi shows ever)

(This is a favorite b-rate sci-fi movies of my sister and I. Jane Fonda is sooo hot)

(A Freman stillsuit from the movie Dune. If you haven't read the book, do it now)

After, we decided to go catch a movie as the weather was being classic Seattle, and therefor, unpleasant to be in. We headed up to Lynnwood to see Despicable Me. This movie is fantastic. It's so good I really can't put it into words. So go see it... and feel free to invite me, 'cause I want to see it again.

Sunday breakdown coming soon.

July 25, 2010

Red Sox @ Mariners




A very well played game that saw the Mariners come back in the 8th for the win. I was disappointed in the Mariner fans though. The people at the park were split about 50/50 between Mariner and Red Sox fans. The Sox fans would cheer when the Sox made a good play or just a general "Let's go red Sox!" chant. There were several Mariner fans however that felt the need to yell "Red Sox suck!" or "You suck Drew!" (if you couldn't tell from the picture above, I was in the section near JD Drew) whether or not the Mariners were ahead or behind. The most ridiculous one came when some lady randomly pointed at me and yelled "You guys suck!" when I was walking out of the park with everyone else.

I expect this kind of stuff to go on at Red Sox/Yankees games, but I wasn't expecting it here. Especially with the Mariners walking out the winners. It will be interesting to see if it happens again with a different team in a few weeks when I go to a game while my parents are in town visiting.

July 5, 2010

July 4, 2010

3 Weekend Recap aka Lot's of Firsts


So I finally made my first trip out to Index this last weekend. It was very eye opening as to what climbing on gear out here is going to take. Very different from back east. We only got in a few pitches because Rudy had to get home to pack for Atlanta, but the quality was outstanding. I only ended up top roping, but made up for it by getting on the stellar Marginal Karma (5.11b). I know I'll be able to lead it as soon as I can place my gear more efficiently. Can't wait to get back.

Ok, now to jump back to two weekends ago. The original plan was for Chelsea and I to head out to Little Si, but with Washington weather being what it is, we instead took the sure thing and headed out to Leavenworth. Nothing crazy went down, but Chelsea got back on Scrabbled Eggs (V8) for a second time and was very close to sending. Considering she hasn't trained for bouldering in months, this is a problem that should go down easy in the fall when she's back in shape for it. As for me, I messed around on some easier problems until we made our way over to the Swift Water area. There is a schist cave in the back corner of the picnic area that made me quite homesick for Rumney. I only did the V7 line, but it's first hard schist climbing I'd done since the move and it got me wicked psyched for my trip home in late August.

Then there was last weekend. Two solid days of real rock action. Saturday was spent running sport routes at the Nevermind Wall at Exit 38 with Andy. A solid day that went 5.1a, 5.12a, 5.11b, 5.12a, 5.10d. The endurance in slowly coming back. But then there was sunday, the day of power pulling on the boulders of Gold Bar. I had one clear goal heading up there, Twisted (V10). I had worked on the problem once before a few months ago, putting in at least 15 tries. So after a long hike and a quick warm up, I went back to battle with my nemesis. It got an early lead by spitting me off the first of the hard moves, a move I had gotten dialed on the previous session. I got the feel for the move back after several attempts and then the work began. Attempt after attempt, but the no progress was to be made. I was starting to think that it would no go after all, but I didn't plan to stop trying until I didn't have any skin left on my fingers. And then it happened. A slight twist of my right foot, putting my body in a slightly different position, allowing me to hold onto that bad vertical pinch. I had that momentary pause where I realized that I was not hitting the pad below me, but in fact, was still on the rock. I quickly got my wits about me, snagged the next crimp and finally latched the first of the top out jugs. I rocked up onto the moss laden slab and carefully made my way up and over to the easy walk off the back side. I had finally done it! After more than 30 tries, I'd finally done my first V10! While this was a goal I could only dream of 3 years ago, I now know that it is only the beginning of things to come. Especially if I can build the endurance to transfer this power to longer rope routes. This coming year is looking very bright indeed.

See you on the rocks!

-Josh

June 13, 2010

2010 SCS Division 1 Championships - Qualifiers

So I took my off day on the nicest weekend in weeks and went inside to watch my kids compete at the SCS Division 1 Championships. I was only able to be there for the first day qualifying round as I had no place to stay in portland and had no intension of making a 3 hour drive for the third time in 24 hours. I'll post links to sundays finals coverage from other people as they become available. Now that that's out of the way, here's qualifiers.




May 30, 2010

Memorial Weekend Madness!




After we did a quick stop at The Undercling (V5) for the sole reason that I had never onsighted a V5. This only bothered me because I've onsighted every other grade up to V7, but 5's always seem to get under my skin somehow. So here is how it went...

Next we headed over to Pretty Hate Machine (V8) because we heard it was wicked sick problem that just had to be climbed. It doesn't look like much when you first approach it, but the climb itself does not disappoint. Despite being quite powerful, it took us several tries to sort out the beta. Here's one of the later (read better) early attempts...

After a lot of tries like this we started to get pretty tired, so I declared that unless I at least touched the lip on this next try, the day would be done...

So we stuck around and two tries latter...


Before I sign out for the day, I'd like to give a shout out to that rock by Pretty Hate Machine for being in the perfect place to rest my Droid so we could get those videos and still spot.

See you on the rocks!

-Josh

May 23, 2010

Behind the Scenes of the Vertical Girl Photo Shoot!

So I got to tag along for the photo shoot in Leavenworth for the new Vertical Girl clothing line. The ladies seemed really psyched on the way the cloths looked and, more importantly for a climber, how they performed. Here are a few vids from the shoot. A lot more went on, but you'll get to see that in print!





May 16, 2010

SCS PNW Regionals 2010

I was lazy and didn't get any vids or pics from the event, but I'll hook you up with a link to Tyson's stuff over on oldguy.com for those of you that don't read it already. Time to start kicking things into gear for Divisionals.

-Josh

May 15, 2010

Now that's what I'm talkin' about!


Really enjoyed this new short from Big Up. Seeing some old friendly faces made me a bit home sick, but outside of that it got me really psyched to train. Been needing that to supplement my outdoor time. May have to make a small stop at the Central Rock Gym on my trip home now since the place looks sick.

See you on the rocks... or the plastic.

-Josh

May 9, 2010

Leavenworth 5/8/10 - Part 2


Thanks to Devo for shooting the vid, and for cutting out my excessive chalking in the middle.

Leavenworth 5/8/10


More video and pics coming once Devo posts them up. Felt good to plug gear and climb slab for the first time in about 10 months. Should help a lot with the head game and of course, the footwork.

-Josh

May Day comp at Stoneworks







While waiting for scores some people had fun drawing on the parking lot with chalk.


May 3, 2010

End of an Era

The Sentra is dead. Blogging will have to be put on hold until I can get a new vehicle. I will get the comp stuff up from this last weekend when I have some time.

-Josh

April 25, 2010

A long week... with a good end

So my week started out with an ok day at work, can't complain, but the night ended with me eating something that I apparently shouldn't have. Of course I didn't know this until 4am when I woke up sweating and with stomach pains. I new what it was right away, food poisoning. I'd had it before, so I figured I just go chill in the bathroom until my body took care of the problem then I'd get back to sleep. But no, it took until 6 for the nastiness to get started and the first wave didn't stop for half an hour. Yes, I said first wave. I managed to pass back out after this, but when I woke up a few hours later my body decided it hadn't quite got it all. It also decided that the other direction was the best way to go this time. So after all this, I can barely get any water down, no food whatsoever, and I'm starting to get really light headed. So I phoned in some help and got myself to a hospital.

After they initially check me out the get me hooked up to an IV to get me re-hydrated. They proceed to pump 3 bags of fluid (each about 2 liters) into me over about 2 hours! The older nurse told me that was only the second time she's ever seen someone need that much fluid. I started feeling better right away, but it was another 8 hours until I could start to eat any food again. And by any food I mean a single bagel, barely. The next day food started to go down a little better, but I didn't start eating normally again until friday. My stomach is still giving me some trouble today. Hopefully this doesn't last much longer.

So in an attempt to help my stomach, and my sanity, I headed out to Little Si with Fritz and B-Hops today.


It felt good to be pulling down on some rock and I felt good considering what I had been through this week. I felt super solid after a warm-up run on Aborigine and decided the next step was to go straight after my mini-project, Hang Out to Dry. I say mini-project, because this was going to be my third day on it, but was also only going to be my third try. The lower, technical half went much smoother than the previous week. After chilling at the midway rest for a good bit, I headed into the upper, power section. Today I had some pull left over and made the crux move just fine to almost sketch off two moves later on a biggish move to a jug, but I managed to just latch it with two and a half fingers. Thank you +4! Glad to put this one down, super fun route, will definitely get on it again.

Feeling good about the send, I chilled out for a while and watched/belayed for B-Hops and Alex on some climbs. I also started to think about what was next. I was thinking longer. So after a good while I got on Technorigine. This was a climb I tried once back in august, but was unable to do at the time because of my shoulder. With my shoulder back in shape, I was at least able to hang through the upper moves to get the beta sorted out. Psyched to get back on it and I've got the plan to train for the distance... but I have not forgotten about the boulder project in Gold Bar! So much climbing to get done!

See you on the rocks.

-Josh

April 18, 2010

Oops!

So I've reverted to my lazy ways and haven't been posting. On the other hand I've been doing a fair bit of climbing. Two days bouldering at Leavenworth, one at Gold Bar, and another at Little Si doing the first real rope climbing I've done in about 6 months. Long story short, I've gotten most of my power back, but my endurance/power endurance still has a long way to go to get back to where I was. Fortunately I know how to fix this, and it just involves climbing more and for longer. Also, I haven't forgotten about that shoe review. I got them to be mainly an indoor pair and haven't be climbing in the gym much, but that is about to change, so it should be coming up soon.

See you on the rocks!

-Josh

March 2, 2010

This makes 9 pairs on rotation, I think...


New shoes showed up today! Look for a review sometime next week after I get a chance to really break them in.

-Josh

February 26, 2010

Filling in the gaps

So I went on a binge, and I'm watching a nice retro-pair on eBay too. Shoes are the one part of my wardrobe that I've more or less ignored over the last several years. However with the people I hang around with now, I need to step my game up a little.

-Josh

Four years later...

And they're still showing me love! It may be a hole in the wall, but this is the gym that gave me my start, so it will always feel like home. Plus you can see some of the first routes I ever set in this shot.
-Josh

Facelift

Thanks to Izzy for my new banner. It's the dopeness!

-Josh

February 19, 2010

In case you didn't hear...

Finally got the banner at the gym. So psyched on how well the kids did and how much effort they put in to bring this thing home. Almost feels like there's no time to celebrate; We're head down into rope season now. Fortunately the kids are ready and willing to carry over their hard work and success to the next challenge. Look out, VW is looking for a two-for!

-Josh

February 6, 2010

Play, Dance, Repeat.


So BT's new album,
These Hopeful Machines, came out this week. These hopeful Machines is the follow up to his modern classical masterpiece, This Binary Universe. This album sees him return to the dance roots that has made him one of the top producers in the industry, while keeping much of the more mature sound he'd built over the last several years. The result, an almost 2 hour journey through electronic soundscapes that should go down as one of the best dance albums ever made. Here's a track by track breakdown:

Suddenly - He hits you straight out of the gate with the albums big single (although it was the third to be released). And why not? It's a massive pop-rock anthem. With sweet synths and catchy guitar hooks, including a simple but strong bridge, how can you not want to throw this song on repeat? But don't take my word for it, check it out for yourself.



The Emergency - This track is a call back to his old trance style, but is laced with veins of his newer work. It would have fit in well on one of his older albums, and would probably have been a single. But on this album it comes across as filler. That is not meant as an insult to this song, but a testament to how strong this album is.

Every Other Way - Next he slows things down with the albums second single. The songs starts out with a beautiful acoustic part, then slowly builds up a smooth electronic base that gives it a solid groove that still makes you want to move. I would be seriously surprised if this song doesn't find its way into soundtracks. It takes a strange, but welcome, turn at the end into glitch heaven which leads it perfectly into the next track. Take a listen below (sans outro, couldn't find one with it).



The Light in Things - This has got to be the catchiest song on the whole album! You know, the kind of song where even though you don't know the words you can still hear the singer in your head. This is partly due to BT making a track that has the best of what turn of the century trance had to offer and mixed it with a modern sound, and partly due to the fantastic vocals of JES. Take a listen, I dare you not to move.



Rose of Jericho - This, the first single off the album, was released over the summer and was used in BT's iPhone app Sonifi. This is a flat out trance anthem. Songs don't get much more fun than this. It takes a very simple melody then lets it play in chaos. Come on, bust out those glow sticks, you know you want to!



Forget Me - Yet another single worthy track. This may be my favorite off the album. A fantastic pop-rock powerhouse. Plus the part where his 6 year old daughter sings the final chorus fits perfectly with the feel of song without burying it with cuteness.



A Million Stars - To start out the second disc, BT gets straight back to his trance roots again. Simple, but sweet is the m.o. of this track. It should be making the rounds at the clubs this year.

Love Can Kill You - I'd never thought I'd say this, but in this case, a pop-rock track that's only 5 minutes long is too short. But on an album where the average song length is about 9 1/2 minutes, that is exactly the case. An extremely well crafted song that is just at home on the dance floor as the radio.

Always - When I first heard this song I thought I was listening to a new David Bowie song. If that's not enough to make you want to listen to it then I just don't know what is.

Le Nocturne de Lumière - A fantastic, semi-ambient, glitch number. It evokes some of the same feelings that This Binary Universe did. This is the kind of song that is perfect for driving through the city a night.

The Unbreakable - It starts out sounding like a classic, end-of-movie song from the 80's, but build to a classic lighter trance song. Yet another song that should find it's way into some soundtracks.

The Ghost in You - Last, but not least, is a cover of a song originally done by The Psychedelic Furs. A mostly acoustic track that is highlighted by soft synth textures that gain more prominence in the later minutes of the song. A perfect and fitting end to a dance floor dominating album.

All in all, this is one of the best albums of any genre that I've heard in the last decade. I seriously recommend adding this album to you collection if you are a fan of good music, regardless of style. If you love electronica, then this is a can't miss album. I'll definitely have this on repeat for weeks to come.

-Josh

February 5, 2010

Why yes! I am a raging dork!


So I recently started playing Magic: The Gathering after over a decade away from the game. Not even remotely regretting this decision. The new expansion set, Worldwake, came out today, so I went and blew my monthly budget for cards on the fancy Fat Pack shown above. Plus, I competed in the pre-release tournament for the set last weekend. Got totally owned, but still felt like it was a decent showing for being out of it so long. Kind of like climbing 5.10 after not climbing for over a decade... ok, it's nothing like that... I'm just going to go hide in the corner and play with my cards now.

-Josh

February 2, 2010

Coming Soon!

So I'm at least a week out (read as: probably 2-3 weeks) from having the videos of the coaching side of my job put together. In the meantime enjoy this little vid of Syd, the reigning female youth-d champion, crushing a 5.11d out our 60' roof. She did this for fun after finishing her drills early.


January 29, 2010

Post-birthday Thoughts


So, as a little birthday present to myself, I've decided to open up my blog to non-climbing related topics. I know this is a radical idea for a blog titled "The Adventures of That Climber Guy", but then again, not all my adventures are climbing related. To get things rolling I'm going to start by talking about that life long adventure that is known as family.

Most of you know that I lost my mother to cancer back in 1997. What most of you don't know is that I, more or less, lost contact with my mother's side of the family afterwards. I was fortunate enough on my cross country move to stay with my aunt Mary and uncle Greg, with a surprise visit from my cousin Emily. Then, they day before my birthday, my uncle John sends me a friend request on Facebook. Through him I've been able to find most of the family members I have seen or heard from in over a decade. As someone who has had trouble in the past with keeping up long distance relationships, this is a positive trend I'd like to keep going.

-Josh

January 27, 2010

The Job, Part 1: Route Setting

Thanks to oldguy.com for the idea of using videos instead of that junk I stoop to calling prose.