So I'm running a little late

While I wish that last video involved Vasya crushing the final problem and taking the win, it doesn't. However, it is a fantastic example of time management during an onsight comp. This is hard to teach to kids, and is usually learned over time. Mostly the part involving ignoring the crowd that's screaming for you to get back on the problem so that they can have a show. A climber needs to shut that out and listen to their body so that they have the energy to get to the top, because that's not only how to win, but how to give the crowd the best show possible.

Stepping things up!

So, the 2011 ABS Nationals was yesterday, and I could go on about how Daniel Woods didn't make finals, or how next generation stars Alex David Johnson and Francesca Metcalf cemented themselves at the top of the American bouldering scene. I'm not. I want to talk about everything else.

A half dozen years ago this was an event seen by only a few hundred people stuffed into a rock gym that should only house, at most, half as many people. For the rest of us, it could take days, if not weeks, to hear about the results. This year I got to watch it live from the comfort of my apartment. The partnership of USAC and NE2C has brought about the key change of a live web stream for ABS Nationals. But that's just the start of the production upgrades for the event.

While NE2C have been live streaming events for a few years now, this is the first one to have instant replay. It may not be a major breakthrough in sports broadcasting as a whole, but this was the first time it had ever been used in climbing. This is an important step forward to bringing in new spectators as it allows them to immediately re-live those "Did that really just happen?!?!" moments.

Speaking of those moments, there were plenty to be had on the custom built 20' high Vertical Solutions walls. Those walls are as much works of art as they are competitive climbing structures, and they will be featured at all the UBC stops this year. Including a stop in the famous... what? I'm not suppose to spill the beans? Even though John Stack already did it at the end of this article? Ok, fine. I seriously can't wait to get on these walls myself in August and September.

The list goes on. Top tier lighting, the best running commentary I've heard at a climbing comp so far, and interviews with the climbers themselves. This was, without a doubt, the most well produced climbing comp ever put on in the US. The only ones I can think of that would be on the same level is the Asian X-Games. I really hope the IFSC picks up the ball and runs with it.

It's that time of year again!

The Big Red Machine Rolls On!

I have no idea how this kid is still alive...

In general not just because of this.

Finally coming together

I've been trying to get things in the Everett hold room sorted and clean(ish) since I moved out here a little over a year ago. A new space is what's needed, but I'll be happy with organized. Took a big step forward today with an initial batch of plastic bins to sort the holds into, instead of just piling them onto the shelves. This got us moving things around, which got us finding junk back there that just need to be cleaned out. I think it's finally starting to look like a legitimate hold room. Can't wait for the rest of the bins... and more holds.

Also, I found a nice little stop-gap solution to our t-nut problems... at least for one small section of wall. T-nut mod on one of the old Cascade Crags screw on features for the win!

Before

After

They're in! Get psyched!

Back to bouldering!

So I went out to Leavenworth today with a bunch of kids from the team (some were already out there with Adam). Today was awesome on a whole other level. I haven't felt this solid during an outdoor bouldering session in, well, ever. After a barely adequate warm up on some VBs, I did a repeat ascent of Pimpsqueek (V9), and Fritz flashed in right before that. Then we headed down the the main area and started working on the Sail (V9). The first few moves on this are awkward to say the least. Sam put in down first, with Alex following. I detoured slightly to the Jib (V8), which Alex had just done after the Sail, and snagged a send on the second go. With my psych back up, I went back to the Sail and promptly hiked it. We headed up to get on Hantaman (V9), but after a few attempt, and a general sense of apathy about the problem, we moved on. On our way down we stopped to watch the ladies crush the Undercling (V5), which you can see Audrey Hsu on below (I promised her I wouldn't post the video of her falling on the start move if she sent).

The whole crew then headed over to the Swiftwater area. Sam, Alex and I headed over to try Big Booty Bitch Slap (V10), a problem with a heinous start to a significantly easier finish. After a little while the older girls came by to try the Footless traverse (V5) and Raging Bull (V7), which share the same finish as BBBS. Being the end of the day (or end of the second day for a lot of them), we were having a major flail fest at this point. Personally, having done a V8 and two V9s in a day (a personal best), my good mood was not being affected too much by my complete inability to successfully even hold onto the start hold and pull off the ground. So we packed up and went over to where the little ones were climbing. Our general tiredness devolved into some rather typical (climbing easy problems in our street shoes because we're too lazy to change them) and atypical (Sam wading out into a freezing cold river to try and catch a fish with his hands) behavior, some of which may or may not have found its way onto the internets.


And yes, the mens room was unoccupied when he entered.

Tacoma Throwdown!

So the first ever comp at the Tacoma Vertical World was off the hook! This was one of the best comps I've been to, period. Perfect number of problems, perfect amount of climbing time, wicked sick problems that I'd drive back down there to get on again. This could turn into the bouldering event in the PNW with a little work. Good way to make a first impression boys!

... and the after show, courtesy of Vertical Girl, was cool too. Check it.

Because it's true...

IT'S ON!!!

Weight vest training starts now!

... and now for something completely different!

This makes me happy on so many levels. Enjoy!

Death Metal Puppy - watch more funny videos

The Trip: The End

So on my last day at Rumney this year, I fell on the same move of the same route that I fell on the day before I drove west. Brutal. At least next summer I'll know what to do to get ready for Rumney... Boulder, a lot. Even when you're on your feet, you've still have to pull with your arms. It is what it is, and I love it.

So after getting my but kicked, Izzy and I hit up The Common Man for some lunch before heading down to Foxboro to see the Seattle Sounders visit The New England Revolution. I'm a converted man now, and I was cheering for the Sounders.


This was a fantastic vacation, and exactly what I've been needing. Can't wait to do it again next year!

The Trip: Actual Sending!

Technosurfing is one of the best routes at Rumney, and I'm kicking myself for not doing it sooner. There were only two of us this trip, so we didn't get any pics, but I tracked down a good shot of the route off google. There's another 25-30 feet below the bottom of the shot. Get psyched! (and click to view full size)

The Trip: Nostalgia

So due to a lack of climbing partners, I spent several days chilling and enjoying being in a place that feels like I never left. The roads, the food, the people. This is, and always will be, home. I hope in several years I'll be able to come back here for good. Maybe when I transition from route setter to high school teacher. But that's still a long way off, can't get hung up on it. Life is good now. As the saying goes, "if it ain't broke, don't fix it." But you could still work on your food shops Washington, get on it.

The Trip: Re-acclimating

The Trip: A Rough Start

So this trip got off to a very bad start. The airline screwed up and I missed my connecting flight, resulting in me getting in 6 hours later than planed. Then the next morning I didn't find out if I had a car or not until it was too late to head up to Rumney. So I headed into my old gym to be greeted by being told that I could not set, and therefor, could not climb for free, and that to be able to set I'd need the permission from the head setter who is on vacation in the Sierras. Seriously? I use to be the head setter there. Do you think he's going to tell me no? Fortunately Dan showed up and wanted to get on some real rock, so we booked it out to Gloucester to get on some glacial erratics before the sun went down.

After a quick session we headed over to Cala's in Manchester for dinner and to visit Lauren at her new job. In classic Manchester fashion the food was good, but overpriced.

The next morning I was hoping to just beat the rain to Lincoln Woods in Rhode Island, but failed to do so. Just ended up spending the day hanging around the house.

Today (monday) was an obvious rain day, so I slept in and chilled out for the afternoon. I watch the excellent movie Cashback. Then headed into the gym for Yoga for Climbers, which Lauren teaches.

Untitled

Another fit has brought me down again.

Mentally prone, I lie in wait of rest,

But sleep does not come, nor will it stave pain.

For there can be little that will work best.

The mind's infection races far and wide,

Bringing the body ache and heart distress.

The past's indiscretions will not subside,

So that the new born soul can not confess.

So it tries to force and bring clarity back,

To bring these things forward into the light.

But psychoses push back, a swift attack,

And silent the voice falls on the cold night.

An utterance so soft it's barely caught

As he dreams of the woman never forgot.

The Parents Invade! - Sunday

We started the day off with the tour of the Boeing plant just down the street from my apartment. It was cool see how they put together the 747's, 777's and the yet to be released 787's. Each one had it's own unique assembly line.

Next it was into town to go to the aquarium. It was pretty cool, but I expected more from a coastal city. Picked some of my favorite videos I got there:



To end the weekend off we saved the best for last, a Sounders game! This was a crazy experience. No other MLS team has a following like this. They were also kind enough to win 2-0.

The Parents Invade! - Saturday

So may parents were in Seattle this last weekend, so I finally got to do some of the tourist things around town. We starting things off on saturday by going to the Experience Music and Sci-Fi Museum. This place covers two of my favorite things outside of climbing.

(The tower of guitars in the center of the museum)
(Nirvana's old gear)
(Eddie Van Halen's famous guitar)
(I shouldn't need to explain this one)
(What I wanted to be when I grew up. So jealous of Cory Feldman)
(Aren't you a little short to be a Storm Trooper?)
(Dude, your skin fell off)
(Farscape was one of the greatest sci-fi shows ever)
(This is a favorite b-rate sci-fi movies of my sister and I. Jane Fonda is sooo hot)
(A Freman stillsuit from the movie Dune. If you haven't read the book, do it now)

After, we decided to go catch a movie as the weather was being classic Seattle, and therefor, unpleasant to be in. We headed up to Lynnwood to see Despicable Me. This movie is fantastic. It's so good I really can't put it into words. So go see it... and feel free to invite me, 'cause I want to see it again.

Sunday breakdown coming soon.