October 4, 2009

Getting back in the groove

So this weekend was going to be about working on tying up some of the loose ends from last weekend. But then the guy I was going to meet at Little Si ended up going to Leavenworth, and the person that said they may want to go never texted me back. So as I sat in my apartment eating breakfast on saturday morning debating if I should make the 2 hour drive to Leavenworth to boulder, I came to a realization. I haven't trained, I mean seriously trained, in over a year.

It's been just over a year since I took a heinous fall at an ABS comp at the BRG and tore my left labrum. In the following year, I've done my PT exercises, I've climbed a bit inside, I've climbed outside, but I haven't trained, not even close.

So I sucked it up and headed into the gym both days this weekend. Saturday was all about power. I warmed up then headed straight up into the cave. I finished off everything except for the dark green 9 and the direct finish to the dark blue, plus I messed around on some made up problems. Then it was off the the weight room. Any of you that have known me for a while, know that this is not my style. I worked out my arms and core until I could barely hold my own weight, and did a little leg work just because. Then finished myself off with a full gym traverse.



After waking up sore on sunday, I was ready to get back to it and finish myself off. This day was more basic, just climb. A warm up, followed by just messing around in the cave. Sometimes I'd work a problem, sometimes just trying out different moves. I managed to stick the direct finish to the dark blue problem, which was sweet since it's big move to an undercling/pinch. Then finished up by doing my PT exercises, but bumped back down to 5 lbs instead of the 8 I had been doing. I was psyched because I was able to do sets of 30 straight through instead of having to split them into two sets of 15 like I did before I moved out here.

This weekend has given me a lot of hope that I can get back to where I was before, despite the fact that I will have to go in for surgery on my shoulder some time in the future. It's just a matter of finding a new way to train, and making myself do it. Only time will tell...

See you on the rocks!

-Josh