October 21, 2010

Finally coming together

I've been trying to get things in the Everett hold room sorted and clean(ish) since I moved out here a little over a year ago. A new space is what's needed, but I'll be happy with organized. Took a big step forward today with an initial batch of plastic bins to sort the holds into, instead of just piling them onto the shelves. This got us moving things around, which got us finding junk back there that just need to be cleaned out. I think it's finally starting to look like a legitimate hold room. Can't wait for the rest of the bins... and more holds.

Also, I found a nice little stop-gap solution to our t-nut problems... at least for one small section of wall. T-nut mod on one of the old Cascade Crags screw on features for the win!

Before


After

October 3, 2010

Back to bouldering!

So I went out to Leavenworth today with a bunch of kids from the team (some were already out there with Adam). Today was awesome on a whole other level. I haven't felt this solid during an outdoor bouldering session in, well, ever. After a barely adequate warm up on some VBs, I did a repeat ascent of Pimpsqueek (V9), and Fritz flashed in right before that. Then we headed down the the main area and started working on the Sail (V9). The first few moves on this are awkward to say the least. Sam put in down first, with Alex following. I detoured slightly to the Jib (V8), which Alex had just done after the Sail, and snagged a send on the second go. With my psych back up, I went back to the Sail and promptly hiked it. We headed up to get on Hantaman (V9), but after a few attempt, and a general sense of apathy about the problem, we moved on. On our way down we stopped to watch the ladies crush the Undercling (V5), which you can see Audrey Hsu on below (I promised her I wouldn't post the video of her falling on the start move if she sent).

The whole crew then headed over to the Swiftwater area. Sam, Alex and I headed over to try Big Booty Bitch Slap (V10), a problem with a heinous start to a significantly easier finish. After a little while the older girls came by to try the Footless traverse (V5) and Raging Bull (V7), which share the same finish as BBBS. Being the end of the day (or end of the second day for a lot of them), we were having a major flail fest at this point. Personally, having done a V8 and two V9s in a day (a personal best), my good mood was not being affected too much by my complete inability to successfully even hold onto the start hold and pull off the ground. So we packed up and went over to where the little ones were climbing. Our general tiredness devolved into some rather typical (climbing easy problems in our street shoes because we're too lazy to change them) and atypical (Sam wading out into a freezing cold river to try and catch a fish with his hands) behavior, some of which may or may not have found its way onto the internets.


And yes, the mens room was unoccupied when he entered.

September 19, 2010

Tacoma Throwdown!


So the first ever comp at the Tacoma Vertical World was off the hook! This was one of the best comps I've been to, period. Perfect number of problems, perfect amount of climbing time, wicked sick problems that I'd drive back down there to get on again. This could turn into the bouldering event in the PNW with a little work. Good way to make a first impression boys!

... and the after show, courtesy of Vertical Girl, was cool too. Check it.




September 6, 2010

The Trip: The End


So on my last day at Rumney this year, I fell on the same move of the same route that I fell on the day before I drove west. Brutal. At least next summer I'll know what to do to get ready for Rumney... Boulder, a lot. Even when you're on your feet, you've still have to pull with your arms. It is what it is, and I love it.

So after getting my but kicked, Izzy and I hit up The Common Man for some lunch before heading down to Foxboro to see the Seattle Sounders visit The New England Revolution. I'm a converted man now, and I was cheering for the Sounders.


This was a fantastic vacation, and exactly what I've been needing. Can't wait to do it again next year!

September 1, 2010

The Trip: Actual Sending!


Technosurfing is one of the best routes at Rumney, and I'm kicking myself for not doing it sooner. There were only two of us this trip, so we didn't get any pics, but I tracked down a good shot of the route off google. There's another 25-30 feet below the bottom of the shot. Get psyched! (and click to view full size)

The Trip: Nostalgia

So due to a lack of climbing partners, I spent several days chilling and enjoying being in a place that feels like I never left. The roads, the food, the people. This is, and always will be, home. I hope in several years I'll be able to come back here for good. Maybe when I transition from route setter to high school teacher. But that's still a long way off, can't get hung up on it. Life is good now. As the saying goes, "if it ain't broke, don't fix it." But you could still work on your food shops Washington, get on it.


August 23, 2010

The Trip: A Rough Start

So this trip got off to a very bad start. The airline screwed up and I missed my connecting flight, resulting in me getting in 6 hours later than planed. Then the next morning I didn't find out if I had a car or not until it was too late to head up to Rumney. So I headed into my old gym to be greeted by being told that I could not set, and therefor, could not climb for free, and that to be able to set I'd need the permission from the head setter who is on vacation in the Sierras. Seriously? I use to be the head setter there. Do you think he's going to tell me no? Fortunately Dan showed up and wanted to get on some real rock, so we booked it out to Gloucester to get on some glacial erratics before the sun went down.

After a quick session we headed over to Cala's in Manchester for dinner and to visit Lauren at her new job. In classic Manchester fashion the food was good, but overpriced.

The next morning I was hoping to just beat the rain to Lincoln Woods in Rhode Island, but failed to do so. Just ended up spending the day hanging around the house.

Today (monday) was an obvious rain day, so I slept in and chilled out for the afternoon. I watch the excellent movie Cashback. Then headed into the gym for Yoga for Climbers, which Lauren teaches.

August 14, 2010

Untitled

Another fit has brought me down again.

Mentally prone, I lie in wait of rest,

But sleep does not come, nor will it stave pain.

For there can be little that will work best.


The mind's infection races far and wide,

Bringing the body ache and heart distress.

The past's indiscretions will not subside,

So that the new born soul can not confess.


So it tries to force and bring clarity back,

To bring these things forward into the light.

But psychoses push back, a swift attack,

And silent the voice falls on the cold night.


An utterance so soft it's barely caught

As he dreams of the woman never forgot.

August 13, 2010

The Parents Invade! - Sunday

We started the day off with the tour of the Boeing plant just down the street from my apartment. It was cool see how they put together the 747's, 777's and the yet to be released 787's. Each one had it's own unique assembly line.

Next it was into town to go to the aquarium. It was pretty cool, but I expected more from a coastal city. Picked some of my favorite videos I got there:



To end the weekend off we saved the best for last, a Sounders game! This was a crazy experience. No other MLS team has a following like this. They were also kind enough to win 2-0.

August 10, 2010

The Parents Invade! - Saturday

So may parents were in Seattle this last weekend, so I finally got to do some of the tourist things around town. We starting things off on saturday by going to the Experience Music and Sci-Fi Museum. This place covers two of my favorite things outside of climbing.

(The tower of guitars in the center of the museum)
(Nirvana's old gear)

(Eddie Van Halen's famous guitar)

(I shouldn't need to explain this one)

(What I wanted to be when I grew up. So jealous of Cory Feldman)

(Aren't you a little short to be a Storm Trooper?)

(Dude, your skin fell off)

(Farscape was one of the greatest sci-fi shows ever)

(This is a favorite b-rate sci-fi movies of my sister and I. Jane Fonda is sooo hot)

(A Freman stillsuit from the movie Dune. If you haven't read the book, do it now)

After, we decided to go catch a movie as the weather was being classic Seattle, and therefor, unpleasant to be in. We headed up to Lynnwood to see Despicable Me. This movie is fantastic. It's so good I really can't put it into words. So go see it... and feel free to invite me, 'cause I want to see it again.

Sunday breakdown coming soon.

July 25, 2010

Red Sox @ Mariners




A very well played game that saw the Mariners come back in the 8th for the win. I was disappointed in the Mariner fans though. The people at the park were split about 50/50 between Mariner and Red Sox fans. The Sox fans would cheer when the Sox made a good play or just a general "Let's go red Sox!" chant. There were several Mariner fans however that felt the need to yell "Red Sox suck!" or "You suck Drew!" (if you couldn't tell from the picture above, I was in the section near JD Drew) whether or not the Mariners were ahead or behind. The most ridiculous one came when some lady randomly pointed at me and yelled "You guys suck!" when I was walking out of the park with everyone else.

I expect this kind of stuff to go on at Red Sox/Yankees games, but I wasn't expecting it here. Especially with the Mariners walking out the winners. It will be interesting to see if it happens again with a different team in a few weeks when I go to a game while my parents are in town visiting.